christmas in paris

I already thought that my love for Paris had reached a peak. Then I visited in Winter. At Christmas. We travelled via fast train from Bruges to meet up with our English rellos. Finding a flat in Paris that could accomodate two families [with enough beds so that our gal didn't have to sleep on a pull-out sofa] was a challenge, but we found one on Boulevard Saint Germain - mere steps from Notre Dame.

Now, I've seen Notre Dame many times in the spring when it's surrounded by roses and beds of flowers, and the contrast of its stark gothic beauty with natural blooms is perfection.

However, I realise that true perfection is Notre Dame at night in the winter.

When I first caught glimpse of this, as we wandered over to Ille St Louis for dinner I actually held my breath in wonder. I have taken approximately 9 million photos of Notre Dame. All majestic.

I apologise for nothing.

Can you even comprehend the work that's gone into this creation?

There was a wee Christmas market beside Notre Dame that we wandered by on our way to the Metro each day. So tiny, so charming. I bought my sister-in-law a rather fabulous hand-crafted hat from here. Memories.

Wandering mere steps from the market we found THIS! My spiritual home - Shakespeare & Co. It's everything I've dreamed of and more. For some reason, I've never visited on our previous trips [quelle horreur!] but this time I had to step inside those magical doors. I bought a book for our gal on French Christmas stories, and a book for myself. When I purchased it the guy asked me if I'd like a Shakespeare & Co stamp on the inside. "WHO WOULDN'T?" I exclaimed?

Well, apparently some weirdos don't.

I did.

Attached to the bookstore is a rather delightful café with this view. Good coffee too.

I heart the metro so hard. Getting around Paris is so ridiculously simple. I adore the book of ten tickets [which I bring home and use as bookmarks - cos I always lose real bookmarks...]. These stations will never cease to make me swoon.

Oh, our apartment? Here 'tis. Again it was an AirBnB find. Our host, Claire, was an utter delight. My gal managed to leave behind a pair of spesh PJ pants, and Claire mailed them to us - no charge. Love her. Also love the decor of this place [and that view!]

Note the photogenic power of my cape combined with my gal's faux fir.

Never have I ever seen a Parisian kitchen this size. I feel guilty that we only cooked in it one night, but with so many cafés offering up three course meals for 20-odd euros - why cook! We did enjoy that lovely bottle of red though!

Galeries Lafayette. Already pretty much my favourite place in the world - and then decorated like this. Every hour, on the hour, music would play and all these sweets would rise and fall to the dome. Best viewed with a champagne in hand from one of the bars.

My niece Ruby loves ice-skating, so we promised her an outdoor rink in Paris. Here it was at the base of the Tour Eiffel.

Oh, and a winter fete? If you insist...

I am not the only one in my family with a love for this place. Have managed to pass it on to our gal.

You cannot stop me from taking photos of this structure. I love it so.

Oh look, it's the Eiffel Tower highlighted by bare branches. What a surprise!

 There was wine. Red, rosé and Sancerre.

 There were memorable family meals. This one one the Place des Vosges. I had steak and frites and it was damned fine. Washed down with a diet coke with lemon. The best.

Bowie, a Parisian street light and a Paris street scene. Bliss.

There was a Degas exhibit at the Musee D'Orsay. It was utterly sublime. There were sketches alongside his paintings which really provided insight into his incredible way with form. I didn't take a photo of my favourite - woman leaning over a bath. It's imprinted on my heart though.

These sculptures. They challenge Rodin for form and fabulosity.

One day I will actually eat in this café. Next time for sure.

The place in itself is a pure work of art. 

Again, Paris at night, does it get any prettier?

Quite frankly it is not a visit to Paris without a boule of violette icecream. Despite the temperature hovering around zero I had to partake.

Delicious.

Just like Paris at Christmas.

musee rodin and a spot of shopping

Today the sky was bleu, so very bleu, with not a cloud in the sky. A perfect day to visit the gardens at the Musee Rodin. Look at how the dome of Les Invalides glistens in the sunshine.

The sculptures were utterly magnificent, but photos never do them justice. Instead, look at these glorious trees. Glorious.

Rodin gifted his entire collection of sculptures to the city on the proviso that he could live in this hotel for the remainder of his life and that it would become the Musee Rodin and always open to the people.

Good move Auguste.

Apparently when Rodin moved in the gardens were a shambles. Now they're utterly breathtakingly beautiful. Look at these white hydrangea.

If you look carefully you can spot three awesome things in this shot, Les Invalides dome, the Eiffel Tower and The Thinker. Oh, and lots of awesome conifers.

Here's The Thinker up close. Stunning. Simply stunning. And doesn't he look just gorgeous against that blue sky?

We discovered the other day that there was a Robert Mapplethorpe/Rodin exhibition and I was uber-excited. It didn't disappoint. While Mapplethorpe works with photographs, and Rodin with sculptures, there was a syncronicity with their work. It was a breathtaking exhibit.

Afterwards we had to take the girls shopping, so we stopped for a spot of lunch under this.

Looking at this.

How gorgeous is Galleries Lafeyette? {Very} I kept with tradition and bought a Tom Ford lippy. This one's a glorious deep red called Vampires Kiss. Swoonworthy it is. I shall wear it tonight.

Paris sure knows how to make a pretty department store doesn't it?

We're back home now, I've showered and have my feet up. No matter what it's impossible to get your feet and ankles Paris-cobblestone-ready. Not even ugly joggers would work. Oh well, nobody's ever died from sore feet have they? We're about to get dressed again and head out to the Louvre for a quick tour before dinner at Café Marly. I shall wear my new lippy! Luckily it's just a few metro stops from our local Bastille metro station.

Have I mentioned yet how in love I am with the Metro? Once you get a feel for it it is ridiculously simple to use. And cheap. 1 euro 30 per ticket to anywhere, trains every two minutes (sometimes three), fast, clean, efficient. Paris does just about everything perfectly.

Oh, and tomorrow it's cycling around Giverney and Monet's Garden. Bliss.

le jour trois

There is something fabulous everywhere you look in Patis. I spent all my time pointing out something fabulous, and stopping abruptly in my tracks to take pics of all the pretty things I see. Like these lamps.

 Even the graffiti is cute, with a serious sense of humour. No entry or let's go surfing?

Look at this building all covered in vines - do you think Madeline lives here? 

How adorable is this bike? Answer: adorable.

Loved this sign outside one of the shops where the husbands shopped up a storm. Love.

And look! I bought a handbag! From the EXACT same shop on Ille St Louis that I've bought handbags from the last two visits. It's so pretty and red and pretty!

I don't think I can leave this place.

when in paris

So, this is the exterior of our apartment on Rue de la Cerisaie. Pretty non? Well, wait till you step inside. C'est tres magnifique!

I just adore an apartment block with an entrance such as this - and we are staying here. Continually pinching ourselves mind.

Here's a closer view of the interior. And that's our apartment on the fourth floor! Don't you adore the pots of fleurs and the bikes parked just-so?

Our apartment actually has TWO hallways, as there are two wings! One contains a powder room, kitchen, dining room, living room and two bedrooms, the other two bathrooms and the girls room. All rooms (except the bathrooms) have french doors with a wee wrought iron railing. And we have shutters. Faded, peeling white ones which are a glorious contrast to the creme walls.

This is our living room, complete with Picasso on the wall. And yes, those are panelled walls, and a parquet floor. It's divine. And so centrally located. We're a mere stroll from the Bastille and Rue St Antoine. We greeted our friends with a chilled bottle of Perrier Jouet champagne and lots of cheese and meats before heading out to a lovely bistro for a steak and frites dinner where we watched Brazil beat Chile in the World Cup. Oh, and that was after seeing the Pride Parade wind its way down Paris streets.

And this is the view from our living room and bedrooms.

I could live here.

paris c'est belle

People often say to me "What is it that you love about Paris?" Allow me to respond.

It's just so terribly, terribly, terribly good looking.